Its the bracket. The pipe/nipple that protrudes through the deck and into the lower pole is broken. Looks like a weld or casting broke. Ordered a new one from Pete @ BassCat today, as well as new rivets for the deck lid. I understand I must drill out the rivets, remove the lid, and pull back the carpet to access the plate. I am a little leary of how hard it will be to remove the carpet. It was replaced a while back, and am not sure how much glue they used. A friend suggested I just cut around the old plate and remove it, then put the new plate over the carpet. Not sure how that would look, since it looks like the fiberglass is recessed a little to make everything flat when the carpet is laid down. At this point Im not doing anything until I get the new plate to see what it looks like. While Im waiting Ill call the carpet guy to see how difficult removing the carpet will be. Thanks for your help guys. Just glad to know the problem is minor, with no deck damage involved.
That may be my best option. I think the guys that replaced the carpet may have used a lot of glue. Im going to try to roll the carpet back from the front, but if I have any issues at all Im just going to cut the carpet like you suggested. Depending on how the new plate looks I have thought about putting the plate over the carpet rather than under it. My other boats were made that way. My only concern is that I cant feel where the plate transitions to the deck under the carpet. If the plate fits down into a recess in the deck to make everything flush Im not sure how putting the plate on top will look. The new plate should be here next week. Ill keep you guys posted.
Problem solved. Cut the old plate out with a razor knife since the carpet and trim were both glued down really well. After trying the plate under the carpet I opted for gluing the carpet to the deck and putting the plate on top of the carpet. Looks good to me. Planning to give it a workout later this week to see how it works.
I havent had it wide open but the previous owner told me it runs ~ 6200 rpm at WOT. Ive seen it at 6000 when I test drove it with him. The 27 pitch prop sounded large to me. I would have guessed a 24 pitch would have been the ticket. Previous owner was looking for top end rather than hole shot. Id gladly trade some top end for the ability to get on plane easily. Ill try running the prop shaft at 3″ or so and see what happens. If adjustments dont work Ill discuss prop options with my local prop guy. GL1, your right, the boat is rated for 200 HP. Guess thats why the motor has 200 HP stickers on it.
Thanks for the info. The brakes are disc brakes, replaced in ~ 2000 by the original owner. RatherBfishing, thanks for the info on the coupler. Ill check online for a manual. After that Ill start by bleeding the brakes and go from there. If all the upfront stuff is good I should be able to take care of the brake job. BCB, is the master cylinder something I can get from you guys, or would I contact Attwood?
Got it. 2 in the back, inside the cowl, and 2 in the front, 1 inside and 1 outside. With the drivers side lower cowl off the trim motor replacement became a piece of cake. Plenty of room to route the 2 trim motor wires ( and the other 2 existing wires) through the grommet. Motor trims fine now. Thanks for all the help.
Wound up with an HDS 7. Really wanted a larger screen and was leary of the micro card slot and base map on the elite 7. Not enough detail of the canals in the Atchafalaya Spillway. I was told I could copy an SD card to a PC, then back to a micro card, but was not sure. Opted for the 83/200 transom mount transducer. Is there a proven location for mounting to the hull of a 1995 PII? Had a redo on the shoot through transducer on my vexilar ( thank goodness it was only siliconed), and I only want to do this once.
Before you epoxy it to the hull you can put the transducer in the hull and add enough water to the bilge to cover the puck. Then put a gallon ziploc of sand or dirt on top to hold it in place. That way you can move it around if it doesnt read correctly at speed. Once you find the sweet spot you can epoxy it in, or use a good marine grade silicone in case you think you may want to move it later. Be careful with the silicone. A little goes a long way, and can be very difficult to remove if you dont have enough room to get some leverage to pry it up.
Got the motor up with a scissor jack after releasing the pressure. When I removed the motor some hydraulic fluid came out. I closed the manual bleed valve. Not sure if this was a result of having the bleed open or if there is something leaking. Dont recall seeing a lot of fluid when I replaced the original trim motor in January. Ran the motor by itself and it worked both ways. Now Im getting confused. Was able to turn the small coupling between the motor and hydraulics by hand. Did have more resistance going counterclockwise. The release valve was closed so I assume that was normal. Put everything back together and was able to trim up and down 30 times without a problem. Then I noticed a small amount of water coming out of the motor, on the sealed side. I already heard the “you get what you pay for” speech since this is a rebuilt motor. Anyway, its still under warranty, and as long as the hydraulic fluid issue is normal I should be good to go.
Im a fan of Bass Boat Saver. Easy to apply, and a little goes a long way. I wax with carnauba wax twice a year and wipe the boat down with BBS when it comes out of the water.
I use Stabil storage treatment, Stabil methanol treatment, and Lucas fuel injector treatment. In my boat, in my truck. Never a problem.
All temps have been taken with ambient temperatures in the mid 80s. Ill continue to monitor but sounds like I am okay. Thanks for the input.Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Have used Bass Boat Saver for years with good result. Also use it on my boat.Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
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