Bass Cat Boats wrote:The fuel primer bulbs on a 2011 model were not ethanol resistant. We suspect the primer bulb has deteriorated over winter.Hmmm, I didnt know that, add this to the list of reasons I dont buy ethanol gas.
Youve probably already tried it, but Id back flush between the pump and live-well, disconnect the pump and check the impeller for debris. Given the pump “sounds” okay, Im betting its either debris in the line/impeller or maybe air….
Hey Fly -take a break and check your pms….. thanks, Pegleg
I have a Sabre FTD, which I purchased without really researching any other BCB product, just saw it and bought it. Ive been very pleased with it and, it has met all my needs. I am 6 2″ and the console/seat setup is fine for me. It had a hot foot when I purchased it and, after trying it, I had the dealer take it out. I didnt just not like it, I hated it, not my “cup of tea”. It had the slider option, but even with it all the way back, it cramped my leg after awhile. As far as the deck space the dimensions are as follows: starboard to port at base of TM = 43″, starboard to port at step up = 64″, from base of TM to step up (bow to stern) = 55″. So, I suspect your measurements were correct.As far as the width of the rig, its a little over 8 wide. So, 105″ is going to be “tight”. The height of my rig at the highest point on the motor (Yamaha hpdi 150) tilted it about 6, of course the Yamaha has a “wing” on the back of the motor that makes it a little taller when trimmed up. I can back my rig in my garage with the pro poles “up”, you wouldnt be able to do that with your clearance. Having said this and, considering your comment it could be a “deal breaker”, Id recommend you personally re-measure both your garage and the rig youre considering before buying it. But, based on the info youve provided, I think the Sabre FTD will fit, albeit “tight”. I am assuming you dont have any tight turns you need to make backing in. Bottom line, if I had it to do over again, Id give the P2 a closer look… only because Id want to know the difference in price between the rigs. Id rather have a 200hp 4 stroke than the 150hp 2 stroke that I currently have. But, Im pretty sure the sticker shock would bring me back to “reality”. What I was hoping for, and it may or may not happen, is for Yamaha to come out the a 175 sho 4 stroke.As already mentioned, I think youll be pleased with either choice…. good luck.
As for 175SHO wont happen for a while IMO.Fly – its “sinking in”… albeit slowly. But, on the “bright side”, its saving me $. Hmmmm, wonder what Hydro Tech could do with my hpdi 150?…. Just kidding!!!!!!!!
Just “my two cents”, but Id check my insurance policy for “exclusions” and “owner responsibilities”, in regard to a potential subsequent loss due to the defective charger. You dont say what the value of your Puma is but surely its a fraction of what the replacement cost of the charger would be….. and youd get “peace of mind”…. like I said, just “my two cents”…
Yep, not a “smooth” transaction and, from the customer perspective leaves a lot to be desired…. but (and you know what always comes after “but”) from the parts guy perspective which your order was “one of many”, a pretty good response once the delay was realized. He actually provided you with an alternative solution to participate in your weekend tournament. Maybe, Ive just gotten use to “customer abuse”, but this does not seem all that bad to me. No criticism on posting your experience. I always post with the assumption itll be taken for “what its worth” by the reader so, I read with that perspective also. Good luck…
Sorry for your issue… glad its not mine… Ive had that with my camper. I agree with GL1, check your fuses first. The circuit that your brakes lights work are the same that the cruise control “brake tap off” works, but the L/R turn signals are normally a different circuit. Also, different wires in your wiring harness. So, my guess you have “multiple” issues. If you find youve got a blown fuse, then likely a “ground” issue. And, thats the one thats really a lot of “fun” to trace down. And, yes, they are sealed and therefore you buy the whole unit new. I am on my second set on my 2010 Sabre FTD… when these “go”, Im going with the leds… much brighter. Best of luck.
As usual, a starter for a meaningful debate…. if it does not turn ugly that is…. Im hoping I learn something from this… my observations/comments:* Surprised he “called them out by name” but noticed he started to “back off” a little once challenged. But hes convinced based on the evidence hes seen that is obvious.* I have read articles that nothing can eliminate phase separation but, Ive never read anything that “damned” all additives.* I get my filters changed annually and, run only non ethanol gas. So, I only add Ring Free.* It is recommended by my dealer/mechanic for mitigating coking. I trust his advice more than the guy here. * I have had discussions and actually looked at the parts (filters/plugs) being replaced with him and, Ive not had anything like what this guy described. * Ive actually wondered whether I ought to go to bi-annual maintenance because the parts being replaced didnt appear much different than the new parts being installed.Bottom line; Im inclined to keep doing what Ive been doing, so far Ive had good luck and, its recommended by a certified Yamaha mechanic who I trust to be both competent and honest. But, Im interested in reading what others will post.
Yep, mine too, cant help but wonder if theyve been “hacked” and this has something to do with why their parts/accessories link is having issues? BBC site, is not having this issue, checked to see if it was on “my end” and, does not appear to be.
Just trade it in on this one… your partial to red, right? Sorry, couldnt resist…..http://www.shermsmarine.com/images/newB … ar_FTD.jpg
billius wrote:I would trade for that rig, but its long gone. (rolling eyes) There is a new Eyra SP there that I could be satisfied with!! Yeah, that would be my choice too, if only financially possible…Dont know if this has anything to do with your issue, but when I ordered replacement lights for my rig, I noticed that the grommets were different from the original ones. I just used the original grommet due to the fact I didnt want them to be different (lights “expired” at different times). Point being, I noticed the BCB post and your response and, youre likely to get different grommets even if you “go back” to the original lights. Just fyi….. good luck with your remedy, whatever that may be…
This one?http://basscatowners.yuku.com/topic/289 … -new-ownerHe says it is a custom addition, so Im thinking maybe a canvas shop? Dunno?
ward wrote:Well…last year I listened to him say “I didnt know driving so far down the river and going through the lock would shorten my time” on stage as to why he didnt catch fish..Now I look at Facebook and see him advertise the stuff he beat up on products his sponsors probably take some pride in producing.Both are idiotic. He put up pics of stuff he knocked off of a bcb on FB at a derby and I wouldnt be the only one getting a piece of him here.Sounds like a “tongue in cheek” reply to an expected question to me. But I wasnt “there”…. RTR
The question I have is this a change from previous experience? Or has it always done this? I had the same thing happen to my Sabre trailer, albeit its not a tandem. It turned out to be that I needed to bleed the brakes. Once I did, back to “normal”. Id describe mine as a “thud”. The neat thing about my trailer is that there is only one fitting to bleed, the way BCB set up the brake lines is that one line from the actuator goes to the RH wheel, then from there a line runs along the axle to the LH wheel. It takes two folks, one at the actuator with a screw driver to depress the actuator and one at the fitting to open/shut it. As we bled the brakes, it was obvious we were making progress as the actuator became increasing harder to depress. Point being, if you decide to give it a try, you should know right away if youre “on to the problem”.
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