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Thanks for the replies.  Sounds like would be a good idea to me.  As far as engine hours go, I do not put a lot, trolling motor will end up with more hours more than likely.  Seems to me is almost peace of mind, allows for a little more margin of error.  Main concern is just that it lasts and holds up.  Had a concern with all that weight hanging of back of boat would wear on the rear end over time and create stress.

I’ll ask the dealer if still can change the order.  Don’t know if they started building it yet or not.

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Seems kind of odd on a trailer they didn’t heat shrink the connections or use the adhesive type butt connectors, so connections would be strong and water tight,  would stop connections from pulling apart and prevent corrosion.  Is this common practice on bass boats?

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Think I’m gonna redo the trailer connections with something like this.  About $0.59 a piece.  Just a little piece of mind, had a wire pull apart, this would have prevented it.

Butt Connector Marine Grade – Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink – A81218-12-10 AWG – 25 Pack

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0121ZVXW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3BR7CFS182GCPAPH1EV2

 

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For a not at fault accident you should try running through your insurance too, see who gives you the best offer.  Your rates are not supposed to go up if you are not at fault, you could call to confirm.  If they pay for your trailer they will just send the bill to the other guys insurance in the end, it’s called subrogation. Some companies first party treat trailer as a part and pay replacement cost without depreciation.   If that was the case, would be no stress on your part, they would just buy a new one.

You have a contract with your insurance company, depending on what type of policy you have, they may cover more than you think.

Good luck, don’t just settle with other guys insurance without knowing all your options.

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Oh yeah, my 2021 p2 was about $58k before fees/taxes, my 97 Ford Expedition is worth about $3k.  So about 20 times more expensive then tow vehicle.

but, I love my old Expedition.  Good vehicle and it is paid for.  For the most part I can fix it myself and parts are cheap.   And I don’t have to be paranoid with it like a new car.  I am going to drive that thing until it quits.

 

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It was just hanging out a little, maybe 5-6” under the seat, noticed it flapping around and just looked weird, I pulled on it some to see if it was loose.

Wasn’t like in that picture, that was after I pulled on it some.  That was just to show what it was.  Seemed weird, so asked what it was.

Makes sense if is to seal the foam from moisture.  I took the seat cover off and wrapped the cushion with the bag and taped it so can’t come loose.  All good now.

thanks

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2021 p2 SP.  24v, 3 batteries total. I haven’t used the kicker tank once yet.  Seems without it would be less things to go wrong if you don’t need it, I.e. gas lines, valves, etc… 24v on Lowrance ghost has been plenty, pulls boat very well.

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Is in a little bit where the distortions are.   Hard to get a picture because surfaces are not really flat.  One spot goes in about 1-2 mm where I could get a straight edge on it.  On both sides where saw it are shallow depressions, I.e. sinks in a little.  Not a ton, 1-2 mm probably.  I will show to dealer, has to go in next month either way.  Just didn’t know if this was just normal variation on bottom of boat or not.   Fiberglass boats are never perfectly flat, are ripples when light hits it right usually either way.  Didn’t want to bug them about something that is normal.

Can see in picture of level at top is gap in middle between level and gelcoat.

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 Blue fox sides, white top and bottom, silver pin striping, Orinoco blue all the other stuff. 

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Well, I have a 21 p2 w/ a 4s 200 proxs.  My boat came with a 24p fury 3.  Couldn’t get rpms up over 55-5600.  Dealer was nice and swapped out 24 for a 23.  That got me up to 57-5800 at 68-69 mph.   Been running that for a few months and works pretty good, ran the fury 3 3/8 ptp.  Getting speed of graph and rpm from smart craft.  Just me usually, water in livewells and a 1/2 to full tank of gas, for testing purposes.

Saw this post a while back and figured would give trophy plus 23 a try, got one for a really good deal.

Played with settings a bit, setup the way was suggested with blowout ring, 2 solid pvs and 2 partial pvs at 2 7/8 ptp.  Had horrible cavitation on holeshot and would almost freerev on acceleration, so had to change something.  I lowered the motor to 3 7/16 and still had bad holeshot and cavitation.  I plugged all the holes on the prop and lowered the engine, I am at 3 9/16 prop to pad now and holeshot is awesome.  I can get it up to about 67 at 5900 rpms now.  But chine comes on strong at about 65-66 mph.  Going to try raising motor up a quarter inch and see what happens.  Maybe plugging the PVS plugs all down fixed the holeshot, raising it a little will help with the chine.  Should be doing changes 1 thing at a time, but time doesn’t always allow.

I leveled the boat on the trailer with a 4 ft level, using the tongue jack. Leveled the lower unit off of the cavitation plate with a torpedo level with the trim switch.  Measured at bottom of pad and centerline if prop shaft at rear to the garage floor.  Did this to get baseline.  On my boat inner and outer plates on jackplate level is about 4 inches prop to pad.  So once you know that you can make changes at the jack plate and add/substrate from your baseline to get prop to pad after adjusting at jack plate.  Guessing each boat is slightly difference.

Never had any issues with water pressure at any engine height I tried.  Always seems to run 15-20 when up to speed.  No issues with water temp.

Been trying to learn how to prevent the chine walking from starting, and getting better, but need more practice.  Some good info on this forum for that.

One thing I did notice over the 23 fury 3, the trophy seems to get worse gas mileage.  Guessing because is 4 blades vs 3, more drag maybe.  Maybe wrong terminology but the fury 3 seems to hook up better in a straight line once you get going and run flatter.  The trophy seems to work better at midrange speeds, handling and holeshot with a load.  I’m thinking the trophy plus will be better in summer when it’s hot and have a heavy load, fury colder weather when it can run.

Been trying to get over 70 safely, kind of feel like after get there won’t be as important anymore.  Just kind of a goal at this point.  Seems like everyone else with this boat gets there pretty easily.  So might just be the loose nut behind the wheel.

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Appreciate the advice guys.  I am sure a lot of my issues are due to inexperience.  It’s a fun boat, realistically faster than I probably need, but I want to learn to get what I can out of it.

After to talking to Jim, sounds like I need to run the motor a little lower on the jack plate and run the trim a little higher to get the nose up.  I thought it was supposed to run close to flat, but sounds like I need to get used to running the nose higher if want to get that last little bit.  Will take it slow and get there.

Don and Gerard, thanks for the input too.  Sounds like I have 2 good props for my setup.  I just have to learn how to run it.

My boat is in for some warranty work right now, but will give it a try when I get it back in a couple weeks.

Thanks,

Chris

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Well I got my boat back after getting some warranty work done on the lower unit.  So I could try out the suggestions.

I adjusted the jack plate same as Jim’s, 1/4 inch above flush.   Trophy 23 all plugs blocked.  Got to take it out yesterday.  2 guys, full tank of gas, loaded, was able to get 69 at a little over 6000 rpms.  Tried running the trim a little higher than I usually would, above neutral where pad and lower are even/level, picked up some more RPMs.  Never felt unstable, but would feel it lift.  Probably could have gone a little faster, will have to save that for another day.   Liked how boat ran, but seemed to porpoise at low speeds more than when the engine was higher, probably something I am doing.   The holeshot is awesome like this, just hooks up and goes.  Me getting used to how it runs and adapting to it will make it better.

Appreciate the help. Will have to play with the Fury 23 eventually too.

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Thanks for the info.  Thought maybe found something cool.  Guess it was a small world in the bass boat business back then.

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I have p2 with 2 bilge pumps from the factory, they are both run off the same button on the dash.  When the float switch trips, or set to manual, they both come on.  My guess is they are both wired off the same switch.  May not need to use your accessory button.  Could check with Basscat and see if you could just wire them together on the same run/switch.

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I have the same boat.  Same prop same engine.  With 23 fury at sea level in summer I best can get out of it is 58-5900 at 69-70.  I run the jack plate about 3/8 over flush on the inner outer jack plate.  Gives good holeshot and stable to 65.  It runs better with more weight in it seems like.  I have tried to get more speed out of it, but it just runs out of steam 68 ish, or over trim and lose stability trying to get more speed.   I tried running the jack plate lower and holeshot/stability was worse.  Have just come to accept it’s a 70 mph boat with this prop.   I have read about others getting more speed, they are better drivers and better at setup than me.  Some people send their props out to get worked, they are faster but the props are more fragile after. Start with adjusting the jack plate up a little over flush a 1/4 inch at a time before buying props, it’s free and props are expensive.  On mine over a 1/2 inch was point of diminishing return.  If you are at higher altitude may want to try a 22p prop.

I tried a 23 pitch trophy, could get over 6k rpms but tops out at 68.  Good overall prop, good hole shot/acceleration and drives like it’s on rails.  Gets worse mpg though.  Seems like on the top end it starts to slip compared to the fury.  Run this one with all the holes plugged.

From what I have read online, chasing that last 5 mph, or 500 rpms, will drive you mad.  Some boats too are just faster/slower than others.  Just have to get the setup right to where it runs well.  People that know more than me have said the goal is to setup/prop your boat to where it runs between 6-6200 wide open and has good holeshot.  This gives you the best overall running setup and you don’t lug the engine.

it’s a fun boat.  Seems it’s more of a quick boat than an all out fast boat.  You will have to play with it and see what works.

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